In this video I will showcase the “Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3 DIY Kit” for just 200$ . You can find it here: http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?amp;utm_medium=demo&utm_campaign=YouTube&lkid=10122147
HUGE COUPON: A8Desktop
The above link is an affiliate link, meaning by purchasing the product I will receive a small commission by the company. This makes me able to produce videos.
Engraving Area: 220 x 220 x 240mm
Frame material: Acrylic plate
Platform board: Aluminum Base
Nozzle quantity: Single
Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Layer thickness: 0.1-0.3mm
Memory card offline print: SD card
LCD screen: Yes
Print speed: 100mm / s
Printing material: ABS, PLA, Luminescent, Nylon PVA, PP and Wood
Material diameter: 1.75mm
File format: G-code,OBJ,STL
XY-axis positioning accuracy: 0.012mm
Z-axis positioning accuracy: 0.004mm
Host computer software: Cura, Repetier-Host
Packing Type: unassembled packing
Certificate: EMC, FCC, LVD, RoHs
This is a DIY kit, meaning the package arrives in parts and is not assembled. The building of this 3D printer was surprisingly easy and should not intimidate anyone from buying this product. The assembling process from start to finish was approximately 5 hours, and another 2 hours for programming.
Cura or Slic3r? Well, first of all I’m using the Repetier-Host software. In the very start I did in fact use Slic3r with success. However, it significantly improved the print quality once I changed to Cura. That’s the slicer I use all the time, and is highly recommended for beginners!
How noisy is it? Not noisy at all! According to my sound meter app the decibel level hovered around 60dB. You can definetely be in the same room as the printer!
My two best tips for improving this printer is the following:
1. Print out a better cooling nozzle! The included one is terrible because it only blows air on one part of the printed object. When the other side doesn’t receive any cooling it will warp and twist, causing your print to lift one corner. Cooling is the key for improving prints! With no cooling the outer layer will not look as good as it could with sufficient cooling.
2. There’s nothing worse than a failed print! This could be caused by numerous things. However, the one major problem I experienced in the beginning was tangled filament. Basically the filament holder was not rotating smoothly enough for the extruder to pull it efficiently. The filament tangled and blocked the filament entrance, causing a failed print. That’s why you have to make a better filament holder. I recommend you construct your holder by using bearings (see video).
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Music: Max Pross – In The Woods
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