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Music used: A Day In The Sun by Per Kiilstofte https://machinimasound.com/music/a-day-in-the-sun/
Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Video Rating: / 5
How to Turn Your Smartphone into a 3D Printer
3D printing OLO smartphone printer iphone Models take around four hours to 3D print using OLO. OLO. The cost of the 3D printer is assauged by the fact half of its hardware is actually the smartphone itself. “OLO uses a very simple method called contact … Read more on Newsweek
Building a RepRap-style 3D Printer without buying a full kit is still the purist’s way to go – it’s the cheapest and most flexible way of acquiring a 3D printer, but there are a lot of chances where stuff can go wrong. In this mini-series i’ll try to cover the most important spots while Luk builds his iTopie i3!
iTopie i3 http://reprap.org/wiki/ITopie
Herculien https://github.com/eclsnowman/HercuLien and https://plus.google.com/communities/108524206628971601859
Music is No Frills Cumbia Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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NASA wants to use 3D printed Rocket Engine and produce spare parts in Space …
A team at NASA's Marshall Space Flight Center in Huntsville, Alabama, has developed and tested complex engine parts together, marking a step closer towards building a complete 3D printed, high-performance rocket engine in future. The prototype isn't … Read more on Daily Star Gazette
Carbon3D has just unveiled a groundbreaking new 3D printing process which could revolutionize the industry. Their process is 25-100x’s faster than current technology. Read and see more on this new Continuous Liquid Interface Production technology (CLIP) at http://3dprint.com/51566/carbon3d-clip-3d-printing/ Video Rating: / 5
3D printers are seen by many as a novelty but this is proof they can create complex mechanical items that could be leveraged for many builds and tasks. The uses are endless!
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See upgraded version of this gearbox with 3 planets at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9uHey8INAQ
Please Like, Favorite & Subscribe…
It was time to move away from printing solid objects and try to print moving objects. In this video I scale up a planetary gear set (transmission) that I picked up from thingiverse.com and I scaled it up to 200% to make it larger for a better demonstration. The end result after printing for 15 hours and a little cleanup is a functional hand crankable (or drill crankable) planetary gearbox. I can expand this gearbox to include as many series of planets as I want to reduce the gearing even more.
Let me know if you guys enjoy the video and I will create more gear sets and do a follow-up on this! Also the video contains a cool trick I learned for easily detaching prints from the build surface which can be a complete pain so watch the whole thing!
Tiny Planetary Gears Set by aubenc is licensed under the Creative Commons – Public Domain Dedication license. This show is an independent production of Jerry Berg (aka Barnacules). Opinions are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer, friends, or any companies mentioned in the show. Email business inquiries to Barnacules@barnnerd.com Help the channel by donating BitCoin to 1MfVZVMjfUUq8srg1d4RbgXR5e7JLw7R6P Video Rating: / 5
I used scrap plywood for this project, so it was a combination of 1/2″, 3/4″ plywood and MDF.
I cut down three pieces to 14 3/4″ squares, as this was a little larger than the footprint of my printer.
I cut a couple of strips for the side panels. These were a little taller than the diameter of a filament roll.
On one of these pieces, I centered a filament roll and traced the inner circle.
I made a mark at the far outside of the circle, and drew in a place for a 1/2″ dowel hole.
I lined the two pieces up and drilled a 1/2″ hole through both.
I sat the side pieces in place on the base and traced the edge. This shows me the safe area to drill holes. I did the same for the other square piece.
On both pieces, I drilled countersunk holes in the safe area.
The side pieces got glue on one side before being screwed to the bottom square.
I mistakenly glued the top at this point too, but don’t do that. Just screw it on.
I tested the spacing with a roll of filament hanging on the dowel rod.
I cut another scrap that fit within the open side of the box, to act as a drawer front.
Two pieces were cut down to act as the sides of the drawer. Their depth was about the depth of the box minus the diameter of the filament roll.
I sat the side panel on the side of the box and pivoted it off the bottom front edge. I made a mark on the side panel where I wanted it to hit the box top.
Using a straight edge, I drew a line from my mark to the opposite top corner.
With both side pieces taped together, I cut along my line on the bandsaw.
I trimmed a piece, for the back, down to the same height as the back side of the side panels.
Since I was out of plywood scrap, I cut the drawer bottom from MDF.
I applied glue to all of the surfaces that would touch.
I folded the pieces up into place and used some brad nails to hold everything in place while the glue dried.
Using a spacer (scrap), I marked the location for two hinges on the front, bottom edge.
I predrilled holes for the hinges, and screwed them in.
I held the drawer in place, upside down, to align and screw in the hinges.
I flipped the drawer up into place. It was tighter than I wanted, but fit correctly.
I sanded down the rough edges and the sides of the drawer where it touched the outer box.
I applied some paste wax to the areas that touched which made the drawer move very smoothly!
I 3d printed a quick knob (but any knob would work fine).
Using a very small bit, I drilled a hole right in the center of the drawer front.
I ran a screw in from the back side directly into the back of the knob to hold it in place.
I sat the printer in place, centered on the top of the box, and nailed on some small strips along the side of it, keeping them very snug to the printer.
On the base panel, I measured a lazy susan bearing, and found the difference in the base’s width and the bearings diameter. I split the difference and marked in that distance from each edge.
Having these four marks allowed me to easily center the bearing on the base.
The two parts of the bearing got lined up so you could see a hole all of the way through. I marked these (4) holes onto the base.
Each hole got drilled, with a countersink bit.
I centered the bearing the same way on the bottom of the cabinet, but screwed it in place using the four inner holes.
The bearing comes un-lubricated, so I sprayed in a little silicone spray and worked it into the bearing.
Laying the base on top of the bearing, I aligned the holes using a drill bit and my ice pick.
I drove in screws, through the base, into the bearing holes. These are small holes made to be grabbed by sheet metal screws.
I flipped the whole thing over and took it for a spin (pun intended).
I was able to fit four rolls of filament on the 7/16″ dowel.
I added all of the 3d printing tools to the drawer and put it in place in my office.
Now I can easily spin the machine to swap filaments!
3D–printed cartilage could restore ears, shoulders, knees and nose
The field of bioprinting — fabricating biological material with 3D printing — is increasingly looking like an excellent option for restoring damaged cartilage. Last year, the Department of Health Sciences and Technology at ETH Zurich developed a … Read more on CNET
Despite fourth-quarter earnings that beat expectations, 3D Systems (DDD) was hit by analyst reports saying that a rebound in its 3D printing business is not yet evident. On Monday, 3D Systems stock soared 25% to an eight-month high of 14.45 after the … Read more on Investor’s Business Daily